The past two days since leaving Pheriche have been the toughest to date on our trek to Everest Base Camp. At the medical briefing we attended the previous day the doctor told us this leg from Pheriche to Lobuche was where trekkers either make it - or don't. We've seen plenty along the way who have had to turn back. The doctor's words were to prove to be very prophetic.
As we left Pheriche in magical conditions - crystal clear skies and surrounded by towering mountains we all had a sense of excitement and trepidation about what lay ahead. The going really got tough on the climb up the Dughla pass where we experience a long and very steep climb up rocky terrain that left everyone gasping for breath in the thin air. By the time we got to the top a number of the team were really struggling.
At this point we got to see the choroms erected in memory of climbers lost on Everest. This was a very poignant and emotional experience and many famous climbers names were memorialised here. If ever we need reminding that this is a dangerous environment this left us in no doubt.
After a tough trek a very tired group of Air New Zealanders arrived in Lobuche for a tea stop and to check into our shared accommodation and then set off on another training climb. At the conclusion of this everyone was absolutely shagged and it was a night of recuperation.
A number of us have been experiencing a phenomenon called Chain Stokes which is a situation where you stop breathing while sleeping and then you wake up effectively breathless with a sensation of suffocating - not pleasant!
Another medical syndrome evident amongst the team is HAFE or High Altitude Flatulence Expulsion. While this may be the correct medical term for this condition we have come to realise that the more accurate term for this dehabilitating condition is in fact Herwin and Alan Flatulence Expulsion Syndrome - this is a very toxic and dangerous situation for any of us unfortunate enough to be trekking behind either of the aforementioned team members when HAFE overtakes Herwin or Al.
Today is Rob's 50th birthday and what a way to celebrate this milestone. Rob has had a great day with the team and we've all pitched in and bought him an awesome print of Sir Edmund Hillary which should be a great way to rember this adventure.
Rob has celebrated his birthday with the trek from Lobuche to Gorak Shep - the last stop before we reach Base Camp. Along the way we ran into a group of Kiwi andAussie Air Traffic Controllers currently working in the Middle East. We had a great chat before one of them said "Bloody Hell - That's Rob Fyfe!" After the obligatory photos we were on our way again.
We're up at 4am to climb Kala Patthar which at 5,550m is the highest we'll get on this trip and which should give us stunning views of Everest and Lhotse.
Mike told me today that at our current altitude (17,000 ft) a person that was helicoptered in here without the acclimatisation we've had would be unconscious within 30 minutes and dead within a few hours - sobering stuff. Happily we have done the necessary work and are generally in good shape for the last push to our ultimate destination tomorrow - Everest Base Camp.
Unfortunately I can't load any pics today due to technology issues.
Thanks for sharing our adventure with us.
Kind regards
Glen
Hi Glen,
ReplyDeleteNice blog title. Great post as well.
Apart from rolling on the floor laughing while reading about HAFE :-), I must add it's particularly interesting for me to read blogs with words like Kala Patthar (which means Black Rock.)
On a festive note, Happy 50th Birthday, Rob. Getting recognised by passers-by up at 17,000 ft high up in the Himalayas. It's official. You're a celebrity CEO. Must be feeling on top of the world. Keep it that way. Have a great year ahead.
Best Wishes, Amar